Spit Shot?

[tbone]

Just curious how many of you add split shot when nymphing the bow ? I use a weighted wire san juan worm and a bead head dropper with a hook to indicator distance of 1.5 times the depth of the run. I want to be fishing as productively as possible and I notice almost all of my strikes are near the end of the drift ... maybe its taking too long for my rig to sink and setup properly for the first 2/3 of the drift? Any insight? Thanks in advance.

[fisher26]

For rivers like the bow I always use at least one split shot, if your not hanging up on bottom every few casts your to shallow.

[dryfly]

Not used splits while nymphing for a few years BUT I only fish smaller rivers like the Crow. I've been using one or two weighted flies. One of my current fave nymphs uses one or two lead beads for the head and thorax so they get down. The now-famous Big Assed Worm is pure wire on a big hook so drops fast. 26 said "if your not hanging up on bottom every few casts your to shallow." .. Yeah, you normally need to be tagging bottom or you are not deep enough.

 

There are advantages to using heavy nymphs versus shot. The main thing is one or two heavy nymphs tangle less often than with extra shot. Add in a brisk wind and the advantage multiplies.

 

Cheers!

 

Clive

[Lawrence]

I've been using the good ole SJ for awhile for weight which in turn gets down pretty quick. Every once in awhile I mix it up and throw on three smaller nymphs with the split shot and switch up my indicator that is smaller and in my opinion is pretty responsive to lighter takes. Tangles happen but so does rain and wind

[OneMoreLastCast]

Personally, I almost never use split shot or a Worm for what it's worth.

To each his own.

 

I would rather add the weight at the bench.

 

Stones live in the rivers for 2 to 3 years as nymphs, so you can never go wrong having a big heavy Stone on the line.

 

Split shot also takes away from the "Natural" drift you are looking for.

You are much better off using your Worm or equivalent.

 

People say you want to be hanging up on the bottom, and this is true to a degree.

You don't necessarily have to be getting "Hung Up" to be on the bottom. Hooks like the San Juan Worm tend to really get Hung up or snagged, where other flies you might try to get "Down" won't get snagged as often.

With a fly like a heavy Stone Fly, you won't get snagged up as often, you will be on the bottom like desired and more importantly, you will better see the "Actual" strikes.

 

If you want to use the "Worm", try tying red Marabou out the head and tail. It will give you more action, plus it will allow the current to manipulate it more to keep it from dredging the bottom, when all you want to do is Be on the bottom.

 

Also, you'd be surprised at how much deeper you will get if you use a Tungston Bead even on a size 16 fly.

Three of these on a line and the big weighted fly isn't needed anymore.

 

One last tip would be to either use a sinking leader with a floating fly line, or just use a straight run of mono from the Fly line rather than a tapered leader.

Remember, the lighter the line, the faster it will sink.

[bhurt]

try using a barrel swivel, nice for adding weight to, stops alot of line twisting, and saves that $5 tappered leader.

[maxwell]

adding weight too teh flies is a must for me i ise lots of lead wire and beads too almost every nymph. but sometimes when fishing deeper pockets and paster water...i will add a splitshot

[Brownstone]

I tie heavy SJW (+/- 1.5 g) and use it as my anchor fly either in between two flies or on th end..it takes some practice to cast but i find conbined with a swivel it tangles less than other things ive tried..I hate and i mean hate split shot..but try what you want its hard to go without if you want to catch fish...

[walker1]

Lots of good advice. Remember, people get lazy. We should be adjusting the weight depending on the water fished. Faster/deeper water means more weight (split or fly type) to get your rig in the zone quicker. I use various splits, but tying my own flies weighted, sometimes I do not. You have to adjust it to make it effective.

[tbone]

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

[Hawgstoppah]

here's my input on this. While the good ol' sjw is great... it's really much easier to use lighter flies.. as far as adjusting to the depth your in. Take this example. Many times I fish 2 small nymphs. I tie them on with 6lb tippet material. Off the back of the second nymph I tie about 12 inches of 4lb tippet and tie a knot or 2 in the end of it. Then I add whatever weight I need right there. It hardly ever snags up, and when it does, your going to lose some split shot and a small section of 4lb leader as opposed to losing 2 flies. It really does work, try it out

[grannyknot]

Good idea Hawgstoppah, I'll definitely try it next time I find a log jam. Way cheaper than weighting above the fly. Still, my wireworms sink fast and catch more fish than split-shot.

[Hawgstoppah]

Yeah but your SJW (unweighted pattern) can still be 4 inches from the gob of splits on here, still right in the zone, and NOT lost every time you hang up. Might save you lots of time winding and clipping wire around a hook ... although it's not like that's a hard "tie" .... ... and any tie you can do while watching hockey on TV is NOT a hard tie....

[grannyknot]

Yeah but your SJW (unweighted pattern) can still be 4 inches from the gob of splits on here, still right in the zone, and NOT lost every time you hang up. Might save you lots of time winding and clipping wire around a hook ... although it's not like that's a hard "tie" .... ... and any tie you can do while watching hockey on TV is NOT a hard tie....

Any tie is a hard tie for me. Good point though.

[birchy]

here's my input on this. While the good ol' sjw is great... it's really much easier to use lighter flies.. as far as adjusting to the depth your in. Take this example. Many times I fish 2 small nymphs. I tie them on with 6lb tippet material. Off the back of the second nymph I tie about 12 inches of 4lb tippet and tie a knot or 2 in the end of it. Then I add whatever weight I need right there. It hardly ever snags up, and when it does, your going to lose some split shot and a small section of 4lb leader as opposed to losing 2 flies. It really does work, try it out

 

I'm assuming the answer is no since YOU do it.. but wouldn't the fish have a greater chanced of seeing the weight - and not biting - with this method?

[Hawgstoppah]

I'm assuming the answer is no since YOU do it.. but wouldn't the fish have a greater chanced of seeing the weight - and not biting - with this method?

 

Nope. The weight is dragging along the very bottom... while the flies are suspended 3 inches to a foot off the bottom, right in the fishes faces.... IMHO. This system does require you to either highstick the presentation (no indicator) or adjust your depth often to the spot your fishing so that you ARE bouncing along the bottom...

[Brownstone]

I'm assuming the answer is no since YOU do it.. but wouldn't the fish have a greater chanced of seeing the weight - and not biting - with this method?

 

 

The fish have selective sight, if it does not look like food..they simple ignore it..I use this exact method if im fishing only nymphs..three nymphs tied on droppers, a tailing section of light line for your split..like HS said, you lose the split before anything else..i tend to use this method in shallower fast moving water w/o an indie and feel for the strike..I refer to it as a bounce rig...

 

 

***remember: any form of lead is banned in National parks, whether it is a part fly or not...

also illegal to fish with more than one hook, or a hook with more than two points on a common shaft***

[birchy]

Interesting. I'll have to give this a try next time out. I've lost ALOT of nymphs the last few times on the Bow.