Can A Carpenter Or 2 Take A Look

[Guest 420FLYFISHIN]

Hey guys, i just drew this up in cad and am wondering if anyone can see any big flaws in the plans. Its for a small wood shed to keep the rain off so not much load and not much snow at all in the winter. I am going to use rail road spike for stopping pins pounded round by my brother inlaw with his forge. and the main beams will be 4x4 and all others 2x4s. from a top view it will have a "E" shape.

 

i have attached a 3 page pdf. if you want to take the plans and build it your self go for it, its open source.

 

Thanks

Jeremy

SHED.pdf

[Tungsten]

Not sure what u mean by rounding off the spikes,the mortise and tendon joinery is cool but very time consuming and not easy for a novice.

simple joist hangers make life easy.4 walls with the roof(truces) bird mouthed and toe nailed or screwed in is the most common way.

[Guest 420FLYFISHIN]

with the forge we can round out the rail pines in about 10 min/ so we wont have to cut small square holed for them just a large round one. Yes you are correct that i can use joist hangers, nails and screwes but there is no fun in that. If it was framed normaly i would be done it in about 2 hours.

This is something that i will spend most of my summer weekends building up at the cottage and would rather put time and quality into it and use it as a learning experiance for post and beam costruction. but what im wordering is can any one see is there is a major problem with the connections that will make this fall over or will the cuts cause the beam the fail?

because this is in CAD and all drawn at 1:1 scale i can print out templeates and know that they will join. so i just have to trace and cut with only minor adjustments.

 

im not to concernad about cutting the square holes as i have done it befor with a drill and chissel but is there a simpler way?

[Tungsten]

OK i see.The 4x4 should be ok pending how big you make your mortis.

 

You'll want to set up a jig/stop so all your cuts will turn out the same size/length since theres alot of repeat cuts.A plunge router with a 1/2" bit would be my choice.Sawsall also can doit just not as accurate.Hand cutting/chisel is ok too but power tools are way more fun.

 

The plan looks solid to me maybe a little more slope on the roof 5,6/12 your plan looks more like 3,4/12

 

i would do a test joint where your rim boards meet the posts,there might not be much material left after all that joinery.

 

good luck with it, should look cool with rustic/old wood.

[mdfcontracting]

notch the rafters over the beams instead of notching the beams to accept the rafters. this is called the birdsmouth cut and can be laid out easily with a speed square. This will maintain the integrity of the beams. I'll assume judging by how good your drawing are you wont have any trouble calculating the rafter lengths or distance between the cuts but if you do, let me know. Stick framing roofs is both fun and challenging, but anyone with a good grasp of gemoetry can do it. Good luck.

[Guest 420FLYFISHIN]

the birds mouth would be far easier and faster. I will change the plans to those.

 

the roof is slooped at 4/12 with a tin roof so all 20cm of snow that fall over the full winter will slide off lol. I like the low slope as it is not tall and i would like to keep it in style with the rest of the cabin and the overhang can reach farther and not smack me in the head.

 

Thanks for the advice.