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sldrose

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Posts posted by sldrose

  1. 27 minutes ago, bcubed said:

    It's typically not the oar that is the problem. it's this piece. The rotating of the oar flexes the bottom plastic, which eventually cracks and breaks.

    oar_lock001w.jpg

     

    shouldn't be too surprising, considering they're a $10 piece. Pretty nuts in my mind that the big 3 boat manufacturers all come down to this as the best design option out there.

    thanks for that, i thought it was the oar itself, I would been stuffed even with the spare oars.

    time to buy a couple of these.

    thanks bcubed

  2. This always comes up about replacing the rack and pin with proper oar locks.

    I haven't done this myself, but thought i'd post it here for anyone who is interested.

    outcast heat weld their oar mount; not sure if there is somewhere that is capable of that here in calgary

    The picture is a full size oarlock, but they are also available in a smaller size.

    I'd love to hear from anyone who has done this to their frameless pontoon.

    I'm guessing that with the full ring oar lock that it would have to be removed with the oars.

    cheers

    341-glue-on-mount-pad

    241l-locking-combination-side-or-deck-mount

    103-oar-lock-post

    104-strongback-oar-lock

    scotty oar locks.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. 10 hours ago, deaddrift said:

    I appreciate all the information!  Think ive decided to go frame less probably going to go for the outcast stealth pro. Does anyone know if bass pro or cabelas carries them? cant find anything on their websites.

    fishinhole has had em in the past. 
    I got mine at their annual sale in May I think. Pontoons are usually 20% off if you can wait and if they're in stock beforehand.

    the outcast stealth pro was on sale last year. It looks sweet. 

  4. 14 hours ago, FinnDawg said:

    Also, for the guys tying articulated flies, what material are you using to connect your front and back hooks?

    beadalon 0.38 nylon coated stainless 19 strand. from michaels craft.

    there is also an 8or 5 ? strand, but apparently more strands the less kinking.
    (more relevant for intruders where you may change out the stinger hook occasionally)

    Kelly uses beadalon too.

    or intruder wire, but intruder wire is more expensive.

     

     

     

  5. I've rowed both framed (fishcat style) and frameless pontoons. (outcast commander)

    I ended up buying the frameless outcast commander and really like this boat.
    I can't speak highly enough about it.

    The new model update looks even better, with the blunted nose.
    I was also looking at the scadden assault xx and the watermasters, but they were way to expensive.

    Coming from rowing driftboats, I thought I would hate the fixed oars, but I got used to it in 20min
    The framed pontoons are probably a little better from a pure rowing perspective because you can choose any oars you like and can retract and feather at will,
    but you adapt pretty quickly.
    It's very important that you carry spare oars though, and make sure you don't jam the oars into rocks etc as i've heard they can break.

    I actually prefer the lower position of the frameless, despite being closer to the water. Feels more stable, less affected by the wind.

    This is just me being wierd, but i feel like i could slip off the footpegs on a framed pontoon and fall in, whereas i never got that feeling in the outcast.

    I haven't tried either with fins so i cant comment on the difference, but the frameless is more stable to me.

    I did have to buy some addons for the scotty rod holders with my outcast so it didnt get in the way of my stroke, but they worked perfectly.

    I also tried the watermaster which was good, but I preferred the commander was more maneuverable due to the rocker.

    Used the commander for about 80km down pacific NW rivers.
    I'm 5'11" and 230lb

    Also the frameless are lighter and easier to pickup and move, and STACK easy.

    I hope that helps.

     

     

    pontoons.jpg

  6. I tie what I can't buy or anything that is too expensive

    The only flies I tie are my preferred boatman patterns, and my articulated streamers/intruders

    It sounds like you don't enjoy tying nymphs, so don't tie em. 

    From a technical standpoint, I think if you skip dries, you will be hindering your progression long term,
    but I don't think it would hurt too much if you delayed getting into them tho. Plus quality hackles are expensive.

    I think you can jump straight into tying streamers.

    Tying in schlappen is pretty good practice for tying in dry hackles.

    Stacking or spinning deer hair for your dungeons is lots of fun.
    but buy yourself a large stacker and gelspun thread first or it will be frustrating.
    And practice spinning and trimming the head first on some junk hooks cause your first few will suck.

    Have a play with some rabbit strips in dubbing loops and then composite loops for some awesome leeches

    have fun

     

     

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. thanks guys, I forgot about MEC.

    I just ordered a DIY packraft kit and they recommend the aquaseal brand over others sealers.
    Unfortunately, I forgot to add the aquaseal to my order.

    looking forward to working with some Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU)

    I'll let you know how it goes

    cheers

     

  8. On ‎10‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 1:03 AM, bigbowtrout said:

    I used it when I was in NZ since you can't use thingamabobers over there.  It's pretty slick and worked very well. Couple local shops had them in stock.

    you can't use them over there??
    I didn't use them, but I had them with me and was planning on using them for exceptionally deep runs.
    thanks for the heads up.

    I've used this NZ strike indicator and wasn't overly impressed for the way I wanted to use it.

    I was fishing to a sighted fish in maybe 2 ft of water.

    I'm trying to get better by sight nymphing without a dry or indicator like the NZ guys do, so I started without any indicator
    and waited for the fish to move off station, intercept the fly, look for the white of the mouth and strike.

    Well I was struggling so I put one of these onto the 3x section of the leader, maybe 3-4ft up the leader (fishing 4x rio tippet).
    It seems like the perfect application for this kind of indicator.

    Unfortunately, 3x is too thin for this to hold. No matter how I tried to wedge the indicator into position, it kept slipping down to the tippet knot.

    It became a pain so I got rid of it.

    It may work on the butt of a leader, but it wont work closer to the fly where you want a shorter dropper

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     


     

  9. On 10/13/2017 at 7:56 AM, RedBeard said:

    The only kind I catch! hah

    I cant even catch those!!

    but even with an 8wt, 600gr head and T11, throwing a dungeon with a (1/4)" eye isn't pretty.
    It's still chuck an duck.

    As redbeard said, i've tied a few dungeons without eyes (sticking on 3D eyes for the look) and just relying on the T11 sink tip to get it down.

    but using a smaller dumbbell (maybe 5/32) and zap-a-gaping a larger 3D eye (filling gaps with UV resin) is what I find the best weight to throw.

    The eye still has enough weight to allow the fly to jig, but is still as easy to cast as an intruder.

    I can speak to it's effectiveness on the bow, but it has the same profile as your standard dungeon, and casts pretty well.

    i'm not a purest though when it comes to a traditional swing.
    I'm more than happy to throw slightly upstream and add the occasional strip/jig till it starts to swing as you'd do singlehanding from the bank.

    No reason you can't do the same with a double hander, esp since it's big trout not steelies you're targeting

     

     

  10. Bass pro aren't committed to Canada, their website is US based in USD, and its impossible to figure out what stock the store has.

    Calling them isn't much better, and it's impossible to tell if anything is on sale.

    I don't think I've ever seen so much as a sale from them.

     

    At least Cabela's is somewhat better, but will probably be enveloped by the bass pro brand.

     

    Sad to see wholesale go, and the people out of jobs

     

    I heard an interesting comment that even though WS closing sounds good for the local shops,

    If their annual revenue for western Canada is 100m, they are probably sitting on 4-5 times that much inventory, so 500m

    which will be dumped onto the marked at a discount.

    Even if fly fishing is only a small proportion of that, it's still a lot of business taken away from your local stores in the next 12/24mths.

    • Like 2
  11. thanks guys

    the rio website has two recommendations for that rod.

     

    575 for casters who want to feel a faster action

    625 those that prefer a deeper bend and to feel the rod load

     

    i'll check FT and see if they have those head kits available. thanks.

     

     

    As for the T14, I only mentioned it as that was working for the guys on their trip last season.

     

    I'll have to buy a range of tips, but I'm more concerned with the rod being overloaded if I go for the

    heavy head combined with the heavy T14.

     

    I've never cast with the heavy tips before.

    They say not to factor in the tip when selecting a head as the Dloop is formed with the head only(not the tip), but that doesn't make sense to me.

    10ft T14, adds 140 grains to the system.

     

    How that "doesn't" effect the cast is beyond me.

  12. I'm building a sage one 8126-4 (8wt 12' 6") blank for a Skeena/bulkley tribs trip this fall

     

    Any advice on what line works for this rod. I cant find the recommended grain windows as this rod is on closeout.

     

    I am new to spey/steelhead fishing. I've done a couple casting days at the FT speyorama.

     

    The rio website line selector recommended 8 lines for this rod (didn't help me narrow it down)

     

    It recommended "Skagit MAX" and "Skagit MAX short" lines in grain weights from 425 to 575.

    Seems like a large grain window.

     

    As I said, I'm new to spey casting but I have picked it up well.

    I understand they throw 10' T14 in those systems.

     

    What do you recommend?

    Should I go the short head 20' or the standard 24'

    Should I go the 575gr head if I'm fishing T14, or go lighter.

     

    any advice would be welcomed.

     

    Also any preference on shooting line.

     

    thanks

  13. thanks guys,

     

    let me know what you got charged to ship to canada as well.

     

     

    I've found a third option i really like, but once again, there is something that makes it less than perfect

    http://www.catchercraft.com/freestonepontton/

     

     

    $1500

    35lbs (ex oar weight)

    with a proper rowing frame and cataract oars

     

    post-4197-0-93817500-1477932965_thumb.jpg

     

    Raft is bladderless and made by jakes plastic welding.

     

    Only concern is that it is single chamber, but a proper rowing frame and cataract oars are appealing

     

    thoughts? any advice on JPW or single chamber?

     

    i think the scadden is single chamber as well

     

    i'll hit up the whitewater forums as well as hopefully they will know a thing or two about these

  14. If you like rowing boats without rockers, and sitting on plywood all day. Then the water master is for you! I have also been in the presence while an fishcat scout was used. The foot bar is a major annoyance with that thing, the entire boat leaves much to be desired. There isn't much of a difference between it and the stealth approach.

     

    Look into an assault X by dave scadden, or his outlaw escape.

     

    Typically dave is willing to haggle, and he has wicked deals come christmas time, i got my scadden for half of what those jokers at sevylor waterfishmaster wanted. If you can get a good deal with dave, and then upgrade his oars ON YOUR OWN, buy yourself a cargo net and add drings and rod holders where you'd like with stabond glue, or what i've done is taken a good quality marine duffle tied down to the extra d rings i've added in my cargo area, and you've got a killer float boat.

     

    However, dave is very disorganized, if you're not continually on him about shipping your boat, that is where all the nightmares will ensue.... A quick google search will show you some forums and people with some negative experiences with him. But they all get their boats, just takes some time sometimes.

     

    Hi,

     

    i'm hoping to get the Scadden Assault XX or the OSG commander within the next 12 months.

     

    Does anyone know if scadden will be at the fly fishing show in Jan? or where I can look at one?

     

     

    Those of you who have the scadden, did you get it shipped to canada and what was the cost for that?

     

    I'm hoping to get an idea of when the best sales for this will be as i have a year before i need one.

     

    thanks

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