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jusfloatin

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Posts posted by jusfloatin

  1. I was present at the consultation hearings for the TMX pipeline (the 36inch line that now runs through Jasper). I was told clearly and repeatedly at those meetings by one of the engineers that these pipelines never leak so there is no need to worry! ...... :mellow:

     

     

    I'm sold I vote this topic be closed.

     

    Please vote Conservative.

  2. So you use one? The guy that gave it to me says it stops the boat fast so I can't see how it could be worse than an anchor that leaves 30lb's of lead in the water or that is too light and drags excessively? Technically speaking wouldnt any anchor used during spawning season be a bad anchor?

     

     

    Not if the spawning is perch.

     

     

  3. I have always prefered using the piramid type for my pontoons, I have had far less hangups.

    The one thing I hate about them is the idea of how many are left behind for one reason or anouther.

     

    I can recall at least 7 different posts where people have lost there 20lbs lead paramids while fishing the Bow.

     

    I realy like that all steel half moon type.

  4. I have not had the chance to sit on a frameless Scadden so I cannot say anything about it's handling but I will say at 22lbs it can easily be hiked into any alpine water, any 9' framed pontoon will average about 55lbs.

     

    There are three types of pontoon frames made/used aluminum, stainless steel and steel. Stainless and aluminum will hold up about the same in saltwater conditions. Any unprotected (painted) area of a common steel type frame will start to rust right out of the box. Depending where the frame was made it could have started to rust in the box.

    "Not a frame for salt water use".

     

    9' pontoons are the minumum to get but will not work as a stand up.

    10' pontoons is the minumum starting point for standup's

    11' pontoons are the Cadilacs of standup's

     

    Any framed pontoon can be easily modified to accomidate just about any type of add on you would/could want.

     

    Frameless not so much.

     

    My 11' standup has a floor that slides under the seat if you are inclind to dangle the feet. The thigh bar also folds back so you are not restricted whether you are casting sitting down, paddling or just getting in or out of the pontoon. This type of set up keeps you dry, I wear just runners.

     

    The best suggestion I can make is buy quality, which costs.

    I know people that have 10 year old pontoons that I would use to play on the Harvie Passage.

     

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  5. Has anyone got any experience with one of these?

     

    I am considering in getting one for my pontoon, the idea of recording the days event would be good.

    Then again, maybe it would be anouther one of those great ideas that ends up on the garage shelf or spotted on KIJIJI.

     

     

  6. I am checking to see if there are any interested in a group run/run's of the Harvie Passage using pontoons.

     

    My thought is it would give people a chance to learn from others not to mention how much safer it would be having experience people down river.

     

    We could put in at the Zoo and take out at 17ave. (that is if the fence is not locked or .........!) Otherwise it would have to be Glenmore under-pass.

     

    I have a big trailer that can carry a bunch of pontoon's for the return to the Zoo and for some anouther run.

     

    Nothing is written in stone just throwing out the idea.

     

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  7. My bet is that the size of the entrance to the class 2 channel will create some problems .

    Too many floaters forcing some to the class 3 rapids.

     

     

    The FD's jet boat will be there from dusk till dawn pulling thrill seekers off the islands or chasing them down the river.

     

     

    What's the rules on the salvaging unmanned inflatable's?

     

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  8. have fun is all i can say! went through it many times last year and it is crazy sketchy in the class2 section. lots of biol overs that will push you back into the pool for another spin and close shore to shore dist when you add in the oars.

     

    I will put a 6 pack on the line that says some one annihilates their drift boat this summer lol any takers, i will even make it a pack of BigRock over luckys

     

     

    If I guess it right does that mean I have to drink them or does the loser have too.

     

     

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  9. This is what I did, but I think I will still mount the motor off the back. Now the motor will pull me in the same direction as if I were using the oars. Will also negate the worry of having line tangle up in the motor.

     

     

    I consider fishing to be a very personal thing where if it makes you feel good or you enjoy yourself than that is the way to do/have things. Hopefuly we will met up one day and I can try your set up and you can try mine.

    Either way it will make for a great day fishing.

     

     

  10. i guess if your arms cant reach the controls you'd have to spin the motor other wise you point the controls out in the lake so it pulls ya.this gives you better accsess to your stuff since the handel isnt in your way.

    moving your motor is easy just bolt on a piece of plywood that exstends over a bit then clamp the motor there.

    i can't comment on the stand up thing,sounds like you have it figured out.

     

    having the motor at the front or by your feet on a regular toon is just asking for trouble,this where most of your slack fly line will end up.

    motors always pull,better control, easy trolling and if you want to go real slow spin the motor around and put it in reverse.

     

    If the motor is mounted to the front of your foot pegs as per my suggestion, the head of the motor will be a minumum of 24" from the front of the seat. Your foot pegs will still be adjustable so you can still move the pegs out at least a foot more. That give you about 36" from the motor head to the front of the seat. Most small Minn Kota's have slide in/slide out handles which will help to reach or to get out of your way.

     

    As for for the trouble of slack line use a stripping basket (most pontoon come with them) or change to a floating line.

     

    ( I am not sure you understand my meaning of spinning the head. Just incase There is a small nut and bolt where the control head mets the shaft. Undue the nut and pull the bolt out, spin the head 180 degrees and install bolt. )

     

  11. it was posted already and i agree, why do you have to steer the motor??you have two flippers just angle them a little and you turn.the motor always pulls ya not push.you can also row while the motor is on so you can get over to Don quicker to ask him what hes using.same thing in the river steer with your flippers and fish with your hands.

     

    and for those of you that the motor gets in the way of the anchor just move the mount off to the side.the motor doesn't have to be in the center.

     

    Unless said person has flipped the head of the electric motor it will be a push motor.

     

    Flippers will work great as long as it is not a stand up model that has a floor.

     

    Moving the motor mount when it is part of the frame is a lot of work which would require it to be cut off and rewelded/painted.

    There is still a good chance of catching the anchor rope or a pontoon depend how high you have the motor and how hard of a turn you make.

     

    My solution: Flip the motors head 180 degree's and mount the motor on a 2x4 which is bolted to your foot pegs.

     

    Even pontoons that are not stand up models can run with the motor on the front with no worries. A pontoon with a floor is ultimately the best set up as the height of the motor can be adjusted depending whether you are sitting or standing.

    When standing and casting you just reach down to steer or speed up/slow down.

    Trolling is just as easy just reach forward.

     

    Oars are not needed but it is a law to have one at least. I just have them bungi to the pontoons so they are out of the way but accessible if ever needed.

    post-1844-1337000158.jpg

  12. just...

     

    There is something to be said for going slow and watching. Time after time paying attention to just the tiniest clues will yield decent fishing. The tiniest clues for the boat users are lost in a burst of speed and a endless search for easier fish. Buzzing along here and there just wastes good fishing time. If you ever watched a heron fish, there isn't a plastic prop on his butt. Patience does it.

     

    Mind you, you can troll effortlessly. Some thing the newest large arbor reels and plastic rods do well.

     

     

    catch ya'

     

    Don

     

    I totally agree with you on the benefit of going slow and reading the small clues but the "burst of speed" is a bit of a stretch.

    The best you can get out of an electric motor even with a good wind is 5mph and yes at that speed you can/will miss things.

     

     

    Don I bet if you were try a pontoon that was built to satisfy anyone/everyone even the needs/wants/likes of a cane flicker. Your view would change.

    It just so happens, I have and it's yours to try.

     

    What do you say?

     

     

     

     

  13. Gil and I went to launch just now and the bastard has a chain up to block access. Didn't bring any bolt cutters. Put a call into 311. I guess we'll have to launch with the hoards at glenmore.

     

    Hopefuly carma will cut you some slack at Glenmore.

     

     

    Is 311 the best number to call?

     

     

  14. For all you motor users out there.

     

    Something you should consider is fishing rather than going from end to end of the lake.

     

    Watched it many times - crank up the motor head off here make a couple of casts, crank up the motor and head there to make a couple of casts. At the end of the day, lots of touring but not much fishing.

     

    That is the reason that of the nearly dozen guys I fish with occasionally, only one owns a motors which is rarely used. We'd rather fish.

     

    And just so you know, we all could afford one.

     

     

     

    regards,

     

     

    Don

     

    Don are sure it's not the wake from those high powered electric motors being cranked up or is it the noise of them because I find it hard to believe haveing the ability to axcess more area with little effort to be bad thing.

     

  15. I'm not sure how it's possible to mount the trolling motor piece in front of the standing platform without severely front weighting the boat. This is my boat http://www.flyfishusa.com/outcast/fc-10/fish-cat-10.htm

     

    I love standing on the platform with the trolling motor running and I can cast from it like a bass boat and cover a lot of ground.

     

    You make up for it by moving the battery back a couple of inches.

     

    One other atvantage to haveing a front steer is you can actuly use the anchor.

     

    Spot fishing in a pond or lake trolling, front steer is the only way to go.

     

    Even pontoons without a stand up feature can run a front steer, you just incorporate a light floor into your removeable front steer mount.

    Yours could be set up with 4 nuts and bolts and 20" of a 2/4.

     

  16. By front steer do you mean flip the propellor head 180 degrees?

     

    That's what I was thinking of doing, then I would just drive backwards.

     

    I like the plexiglass idea, might be easy to work with than Aluminium.

     

    I will try the mesh this weekend and see what I think. Slingshotsz do you put the battery in something? Like a rubber tub?

     

     

    No mount the electric motor so it is in front of you and yes you would need to spin the head 180.

  17. I have almost exactly the same boat as yours the 10-IR with the mesh in the back. I have a full size deep cycle motor (in a battery case) and the 30lb trolling motor mounted with no issues. The mesh is really strong and I've been using it for 2 years now. The mesh still looks like the day it came out of the box and I haven't baby'd it.

     

    The most annoying thing I have yet to figure out is how to easily steer the motor when it's behind me. The best I've figured out is to extend the handle far enough so that my back can touch it and steer it that way. I need to find a way to make a pulley system to steer the motor when seated.

     

     

    Why don't you just change it to a front steer?

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